How To Replace Damaged Wood Siding

Holes caused by pests and woodpeckers should be addressed immediately as a person only has to fill in the holes with wood putty.

How to replace damaged wood siding.

Prime the new wood you ll be using for the repair on the front back and end grain. Replace siding by working from the bottom up you might need a helper here. Installing new wood siding using spacer gauges. Besides prying out the rotten wood you may need to cut adjacent boards back a stud or two in either direction.

When the board is completely cut through on both sides of the damage the damaged section should pull down and out fairly easily. How to remove and replace wood siding. Replacing wood siding will be based on the amount of damage that may be present. Attach the siding with 10d galvanized box nails driven into the overlap at least 1 2 in.

Above the bottom edge. Nail the replacement siding board in place slide the replacement siding board upward underneath its top neighbor. Caulk all the seams once the repair is complete. Use your damaged section of siding as a template for marking the dimensions on the new siding board.

Wood siding can rot or become damaged over time and will need to be replaced with new siding. When you replace the boards use a homemade reveal set jig to match the reveal of the existing siding. Finally attach the new siding with sliding nails that do not rust and fill seams with outdoor caulk. In most cases the original layer of building paper or housewrap at the bottom of the wall was enough to prevent water infiltration and damage beneath the siding.

Cut the new section of siding to size on the electric miter saw. We tear off the damaged hardboard and replace it with fiber cement siding. Often only a few boards have to be replaced requiring the existing siding to be crosscut in place with a circular saw and removed. Then prime and paint to match your existing structure.

Cut the new clapboard to fit the opening and test it for fit. Remember to add new tar paper for extra weather proofing. It should slide right into place with its top edge under the board above and its bottom edge over the board below. If it won t come out break it up with a hammer and chisel and remove it in pieces.

Use galvanized spiral shank nails to secure the boards. The courses should overlap by at least 1 in. When you re ready to install the new material create a gauge block to help ensure that the reveal of each board is identical. The sheathing and framing sometimes need repairs too but that is less common.